This is an enchanting cabernet. It’s about as threatening as the sleeping lion on the label. The power’s there, but it’s not aggressive. The musky aromas on the nose, with dried oregano and rosemary, rise softly to meet you without punching you in the face. The palate speaks of blackberries and boysenberries, black olive and coffee grounds. It’s dark in flavour, but precise and enjoyable. Campbell Mattinson reckons it’s not one for the cellar, but I disagree. He’s right, it’s delightful now, but time won’t do it any harm. So long as you don’t forget about it, it’ll be fine with a touch more age. Either way, do as Walsh & Sons expressly ask on their website: “Please enjoy with family and friends.”
“Roi means ‘king’ in French, which I feel is entirely apposite for a wine that includes ‘Walsh’ in its name. Musky, perfumed, earthy, replete with fat gravelly tannin, blackberry and bramble, with some dried herb and fresh mint. It feels unforced, just above medium-bodied, with a little edginess in terms of volatility, but no problem for me here. Black olive tapenade, a lot of interesting stuff going on. Probably not for cellaring. Enjoy the flesh, unforced deliciousness and wildness with something meaty (it could be mushrooms, as an aside).”
It’s cool, we get it, you want to know absolutely everything about this wine. Well here you go, go nuts.
- Margaret River
- Alcohol by Vol.
- Bottle Vol
- Blend Info
- Serving Temp.
From the producer
Cabernet Sauvignon. Our wines are designed to have edgy bits because we think its these differences that define us. To that end it’s not fined or filtered. We choose family names from our younger generation because our hopes lie with them and it seems only right that wine with developing personalities have a name to match.
I have Cabernet from sandy clay soils in east Margaret River in a locality known as Osmington. It is eastern Margaret River and with cooler nights given it’s slightly further inland. It borders the coal seam that runs from Dunsborough to Augusta making the soils slighter in structure but higher in aromatics particularly sulfides. My Old Man runs it and loves it. I planted Syrah with him and a post hole digger in my school spring break in 1995. My younger brother Al helped with Cabernet in his final year in 1998 whilst I was studying in California. The rows ran north south on a slight north east facing slope then and they do now. We treat it like a vege patch and top it up with heavy compost in the autumn with the sheep snapping the odd wire as they browse through in the winter months.
Margaret River is as elusive as it is beautiful, such that you really need to visit to truly grasp its haunting beauty. Über-premium Cabernet, Chardonnay and Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends grow here. 'Margies' only produces 3% of the country's grapes, but commands over 20% of its premium wine market, and hasn't had an off vintage since 2006. You start to realise how often this region is overlooked when you can list brands like Leeuwin, Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix, and Voyager, not to mention Cullen, Pierro, Moss Wood, and Deep Woods. It's safe to say that it's time for a revisit.
The rules are there ain’t no rules, but here are some foods we think will work pretty well with this wine...
Creamy mustard veal with pappardelle
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 375g cherry truss tomatoes
- 225g dried pappardelle pasta
- 1/4 cup plain flour
- 8 (650g) thin veal escalopes
- 50g butter
- 2/3 cup dry white wine
- 2/3 cup Bulla creme fraiche
- 1/3 cup pure cream
- 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
- Steamed green beans, to serve
- Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add tomatoes. Cook for 5 minutes or until skins start to split. Transfer to a plate. Cover to keep warm.
- Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling, salted water, following packet directions, until tender. Drain. Cover to keep warm.
- Meanwhile, place flour on a large plate. Dust both sides of veal lightly in flour. Melt half the butter in pan over medium high heat. Add half the veal. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes each side for medium, or until cooked to your liking. Remove from pan. Cover to keep warm. Repeat with remaining butter and veal.
- Add wine to pan and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until reduced by half. Add creme fraiche, cream and mustard. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes or until thickened slightly. Stir in chives. Serve veal with pasta, sauce, tomatoes and beans.
The wines we remember are about the moments. The people, the places. That’s life. Here are some ideas...