When Margaret River adjusts all the buttons on the equalizer to high, this is what you get. Full treble. Full mids. Full bass! Yep - the pre-amp is on and dialed to 11. Take in the nose and you’re immediately hit with kirsch and kir. Full throttle baby. It’s not all drum and bass. There are some lighter ‘acoustic notes’ of thyme and cedary French oak.

Opulent on the palate, the texture here is viscous velvet riding a bed of finely grained tannins. All your cabernet buttons get pushed. Cassis. Varietal leafiness. Spice, blackcurrant and brambles. It begs for lamb and while it’s good-to-go for a fancy dinner right now, it’s true colours will shine through in a couple of decades, Cyndi Lauper glam-rock style.