Meet the maker | Patrick Boivin
Champagne is dominated by the larger houses that produce millions of bottles every year. So it’s important to dig deeper and find those tiny vignerons whose production is measured on a much smaller scale. Patrick Boivin is one of these, an intimate family-run operation that we are honoured to import. Here’s why.
"I was brought up in the cult of the vine. I've always been interested in the vinification of our grapes, in understanding the different cycles of the vine, our terroirs and grape varieties." - Patrick Boivin
Patrick and Marie-Madeleine moved from Paris to Epernay in 1978, determined to follow the tradition of Marie’ grandfather, a winemaker in Cumiéres. Their two daughters are involved as well, and they now oversee 6 hectares of vines in the Vallée de la Marne. Their annual production would be considered tiny in terms of Champagne houses (30,000 bottles annually as compared to Moët’s 28 million bottles annually), allowing them to be very exacting and hands-on with their wines.
The original winery in Epernay has now been converted to a tasting room and museum as Patrick Boivin moved their production operations to a more modern facility on the edge of the town. The barrel cave is now the museum and the old stone walls feel alive with the history of the region. Visiting the tasting room is a cozy, privileged experience where you’re surrounded by artefacts of their past, like their manual bottling machine and horse-drawn plow that once carved between the vines here. And speaking of those vineyards, they’re mostly classified 1er Cru, including small plots in Pierry, Cumiéres, Damay and Epernay - with each vineyard providing something different across the three major Champagne grapes.
"Every year, we face new challenges - climatic, economic, societal and environmental - and for the next five years, we'll be tackling part of each." - Patrick Boivin
Patrick Boivin’s wines speak of versatility. Icone, their main house blend, is fresh and bright, perfectly suited as an aperitif. They have recently released a single vineyard/single variety range which showcases the varying profiles of pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay - affording each a rightful place in the spotlight. And the most exciting wine I got to taste was Clos 667, a Champagne of miniscule production that literally comes from the vines in the front yard of their family home. If you ever get to Epernay, it’s worth a visit to Patrick Boivin just to taste this wine. It’s insanely dense, creamy and chewy, almost a meal in itself that lingers on the palate for minutes.
"The art of winemaking always asks questions of oneself, of nature, of our customers, just as in music or painting. Vintage is often reflective of one's passions and questions of the moment, always in a state of uncertainty, adapting to the times - but never rushing. Above all it’s patience, and waiting for the reward." - Patrick Boivin
Above all, these wines are fresh and lively, speaking of a new generation of Champagne houses that are keeping the region looking forward while respecting the traditions of the past. Our first shipment has just arrived in Singapore, and we are excited to share them with our Mofos, turning them on to something new from a place so steeped in the old. Enjoy them whilst they’re here.