San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2017

San Polino holds the distinction of being Montalcino's first certified biodynamic estate, where winemakers Katia Nussbaum and Gigi Fabbro follow the philosophy that 'wine is made in the vineyard'. Unlike many modern Brunellos that use new French oak, they age their wine in traditional Slavonian oak barrels, which allows the pure Sangiovese character to shine through. This approach creates a wine that balances the power expected from Brunello with remarkable freshness and complexity that develops beautifully over time.

While this Brunello is already showing brilliantly, it's described as 'still a little young' with tremendous ageing potential. The 2017 vintage benefits from the estate's minimum two-year ageing process, but given Brunello's legendary longevity and this wine's structured tannins, it will continue evolving for another 10-15 years. If drinking now, decanting for at least an hour will help open up those brooding layers of black and blue fruits, revealing the wine's full complexity.

The wine's textured, savoury profile with notes of blackberry, mulberry, and allspice makes it perfect for rich, umami-driven dishes. Think aged Pecorino cheese, wild boar ragu, or grilled portobello mushrooms that complement its earthy biodynamic character. The fine tannins and red cherry-like acidity also make it exceptional with slow-cooked lamb or beef dishes, while the milk chocolate undertones surprisingly pair well with dark chocolate desserts.

This Brunello showcases the exceptional work of Katia Nussbaum, a Londoner who co-owns and runs San Polino with Luigi Fabbro. As pioneers in biodynamic winemaking in Montalcino, Katia represents the innovative spirit of women breaking traditional boundaries in Italian winemaking. Their philosophy of making wines first and thinking about sales later has earned recognition from Decanter, who praises their wines as 'joyful' with 'wonderfully expressive complexity', proving that passion-driven winemaking transcends gender barriers.

James Suckling's 94-point rating places this Brunello in the 'outstanding' category, recognising its exceptional balance of power and elegance. This score reflects the wine's complex layers that belie its apparent simplicity - from the brooding dark fruits to the coffee bean-like energy and raspberry freshness. For a small biodynamic producer competing against established Brunello giants, this rating validates their meticulous vineyard practices and traditional winemaking approach, suggesting this wine will be remembered as a standout vintage.